The seed heads were being discarded so she convinced him to sell them to her. It had a longer straw than modern grains and was being used for traditional thatching of roofs. So I went down that rabbit hole too and started learning about heritage grains and ancient grains.”įirst, she found a farmer growing an old strain of Irish grain. “The narrative at the time was that you couldn’t grow wheat in Ireland that would be strong enough to make leavened bread. “I got thinking about the grain,” she says. It tasted like meadows and honey and it was just mind-blowing. The question of leavener answered, Richards’s next rabbit hole involved the very flour from which the breads are made. “It’s not for everyone, but for a person like me who likes challenges and change and solving problems, it’s good. “Every day something changes from batch to batch – the level of fermentation, the taste of the flour, the hydration.” “Making sourdough is a constant challenge,” says Keating, from Dungarvan’s Dún. They thrive on the day-to-day changes and challenges. Though this may discourage most bakers, for a hardy few this degree of difficulty is catnip. 'While most commercial breads can be baked in a day, sourdoughs take their own sweet time.' Photograph: Patrick BrowneĪnd while most commercial breads can be baked in a day, from first mix to final firing, sourdoughs take their own sweet time, some requiring as many as three or four days to complete the process. Rather than the easy reliability of breads made with commercial yeast, sourdough loaves are temperamental divas, requiring trial and error and constant adjustment in the baking process.Ī selection of breads at Seagull Bakery. But they all share a depth of flavour and a chewy texture that industrial white breads lack.Īnother thing they all have in common is artisanal production. The breads from these bakeries vary in sourness depending on the type of starter, the variety of wheat, the length of fermentation or rising, and any number of other factors. And Fergal Walsh and Caitríona Keating have opened Dún Artisan Bakery in Dungarvan. Today, in addition to the original Seagull Bakery in Tramore, founded in 2016, in the past two years Richards and husband Conor Naughton have opened Seagull branches in nearby Waterford city and Dunmore East, and expanded into a big new dedicated bakery to supply them.ĭuring roughly the same time, Bart Pawlukojc and Nicole Server-Pawlukojc have opened Arán Artisan Bakery and Bistro in Kilkenny, which started as an adjunct to the restaurant and has now expanded across the street into a separate bakery.
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